Time to cut a trail!

We spent a glorious day beside and on Upper Kananaskis Lake enjoying a spot of snowshoeing.  It was a cloudy day with a chill breeze which fortunately wasn't in our faces all of the time otherwise it would not have been so much fun!  Fourteen of us gathered at eh Peter Loughead Centre to assess the trails and also to take any extra information about avalanche conditions.  We had three possible routes but only one stood out for its length, location and the possibility of sunshine, if there was any to be had.  The ladies of course visited the washroom prior to the short drive to the starting point.

Our four vehicles were the only ones in the car park, no one had really taken the rangers words seriously - " you will be the first group out and may have to cut trail".  We donned our snow boots and snow shoes, set our poles to the correct length and looked at the map to find the trail head ... and that's where the fun started we followed i8n line, crocodile style, past the locked washrooms, to find the start of the trail.  Our leader, Chuck, disappeared up to his thighs in snow, by the time Bill and I reached this point twelve pairs of snow shoes had plodded over the trail and the deep hole could not be seen.  We were the first snowshoers out on this pristine white snow.  We made our way to the front and helped cut trail, not necessarily in the right place but the scenery looked magnificent in its winter cloak.  We stopped for lunch by the Lake, well actually we were on the Lake.  As we left our picnic spot we heard a thud as fourteen pairs of feet started on the ice.  In the distance some folk were ice fishing and we decided that behind the fishing tents some hot toddies or vodka or a combination of the two were being imbibed, after all what else can you do whilst waiting for fish to take a bite?!.

Neil informed us that snow shoeing helps you use over 600 calories an hour and up to 1,000 if you are cutting trail, well I never!

After 5 kms or so we decided it was time to head back and as we turned to look at our tracks other people were walking in them! A fine trail we were told as we passed by.  Back at the car park we treated ourselves to hot chocolate mm Green & Blacks - what a treat.  We declined stopping at the Centre to sit by the log fire and as it turned out a very wise decision.  We found ourselves in a blizzard not far from the Nakiska ski resort turn off and remained with limited visibility until almost at the City limits of Calgary and then it just disappeared!

Last Sunday night to Monday morning we had over 15 cm of snow; we were shovelling for well over an hour to clear the drive in order to get the vehicles out for work.  We shovelled again when we returned from work in the evening.  Now we are basking in Chinook winds, it is a lot warmer (plus 6C) but very windy with gusts @ 100 km/hr.

From minus 26C to plus 26C

We finally decided to follow the 'snowbirds' (retirees who leave the cold of Canada and travel south to the warmth of the USA) in search of some warmth. This winter has been very different from the previous one: we have had snowstorms lasting a week or so with cold temperatures, snow flurries (intermittent snow) which fell for days on end and more cold temperatures and greyness. Okay so we have had more Chinook winds that have raised temperatures from minus 30C to plus 3 all in an afternoon. Last winter we don't recall having a Chinook at all! Temperatures last winter (2009/10) were low, in fact we didn't see minus 5C for over 30 days, but then the skies were blue and the sun shone.

We shouldn't grumble after all we live at over 3,300 feet.

We spent a few days in the warmth of Palm Springs, California. On board the aircraft the pilot told us that we were leaving a chilly Calgary (minus 26C) and that temperatures for noon in Palm Springs would be plus 26C ....... say no more.

As usual we strolled through downtown Palm Springs, window shopping. This is the sort of shopping Bill likes as there is no need to enter shops at all unless they are bookstores, museums or places offering refreshments. We had decided quite early on that golf was not on the agenda for this trip and therefore I would forgo my spa day (not quite sure why, as he could always read a book or newspaper over coffee somewhere in the shade).

We visited the Indian Canyons on the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation. The Agua Caliente Cahuilla Indians settled in the Palm Springs area many centuries ago. They developed complex communities in the Canyons where there was abundant water, plants and animals. They grew crops (melons, squash, beans and corn), gathered seeds for food, medicines and basket weaving. The baskets were beautiful and depicted the life of the Agua Caliente Cahuilla Indians. They believed that this productive land of their ancestors would always be theirs; just how wrong could they be? In 1876 the US Federal Government deeded in trust 32,000 acres to the Agua Caliente people and at the same time they gave the Southern Californian Railroad ten miles of odd sections of land to induce the company to build the railroad. Of the reservation's 32,000 acres, 6,700 lie within the Palm Springs city limits and the rest fans out across the desert and mountains in a checkerboard pattern.

We had three Canyons to choose from: Palm, Andreas and Murray. We opted for Palm Canyon, which is 15 miles long and is considered one of the areas of great beauty in western USA. We began our hike at the Palm Canyon parking lot and descended into the Canyon. Our trail took us through the lush vegetation, mostly palm trees, cacti and ferns, as we strolled beside running water shimmering in the sunlight. The palm trees provided shade from the already warm sun.

In 1994 a fire had severely burned the area and we could see evidence of the fire and now lots of new growth. Our route took us up and out of the Canyon, and away from everyone else who opted for much shorter routes, and out onto the back country high desert plateau. Once out on the plateau we were able to pick out the Santa Rosa Mountains and the snow covered San Jocintos Mountains. We certainly enjoyed our 8 1/2 mile hike and found time to visit the Trading Post before heading back to Palm Springs.

We also visited Joshua Tree National Park. The area had been a National Monument since 1936 (President Franklin D. Roosevelt) but in 1994 (President Bill Clinton) as part of the California Desert Protection Act, Congress renamed the area Joshua Tree National Park and also added more land so that the Park now protects 794,000 acres, nearly 3/4 of which are designated as wilderness, where the Mojave and Colorado deserts converge. The Joshua tree, Yucca brevifolia, is a member of the Agave family and is a good indicator that you are in the Mojave desert. The Joshua tree was recognised by American Indians for many useful properties: its tough leaves were worked into baskets and sandals, the flower buds made a tasty addition to their diet. By the mid 19th Century, Mormon immigrants had made their way across the Colorado river. Legend has it that pioneers named the tree after Joshua as they saw the limbs of the tree outstretched in supplication guiding the travellers westward. At the same time ranchers and miners arrived in the high desert in high hopes of raising cattle and finding gold. These homesteaders used the limbs and trunks of the Joshua tree for fencing and corrals. Miners found a source of fuel for the steam engines used in processing ore. The Park is a Geographers dream with granite outcrops which began life as batholiths beneath the surface. We were able to find gneiss outcrops, one of the oldest rocks known to man.

Our hike took us to the top of Ryan Mountain, where we were offered some scenic views of the Park. From the top (at 5458ft) we were able to see, even if it was a little murky, the Peaks of San Jocinto and San Giorgonio and were able to look into the Pinto Basin, Lost Horse Valley, the Wonderland of Rocks and the San Bernandino Mountains which form the northern border of the Coachella Valley. We enjoyed our views and we were quite alone having passed three groups descending and as we headed down we passed three more groups going up. We decided that this was area we would like to visit again; the scenery, with its granite Tors, was very lunar.

As we headed down to Palm Springs the warmth of the Valley hit us, we marvelled at the wind turbines all along the Coachella Valley all turning, all producing power for California.

We had plenty of time for R + R as well as reading our books - sheer pleasure in the warm sunshine with clear blue skies. We returned to Calgary to temperatures of 0C, so warmer than when we had departed but a lot colder than Palm Springs.

We would certainly return to Palm Springs as there is so much more to do than just golf and the casinos!

Autumnal gold!

Monday will see our second 'Thanksgiving' here in Canada, my how time flies by. The autumn this year is very different to last year as we have the beautiful autumnal hues to view. Trees shimmer in the breeze/wind. their leaves a myriad of shades from gold to red, too dificult to describe the exact colours. The past week has seen temperatures around the 20C mark and night time temperatures between 12 -> 7C; sometimes the temperature only drops to the nighttime low around 6 am! As this is Alberta, home of the big sky we can view from the deck the sun rising in the east and the darkness still in the west and of course in the evening the sun setting in the west and nighttime already encroaching in the east. The moon looks at times as if you could just touch it!

We have joined a hiking group and have been out on a hike up to Chester Lake, what a difference no snow makes. The last time we visited was in winter and we only realised that we had reached Chester Lake because a sign said 'No Fishing'. This time though we continued beyond the Lake to other lakes via Elephant Rocks, a large limestone outcrop. The conversation was jolly, the vistas beautiful as trees were turning gold. The big pyramidial peak in the centre is Mount Assiniboine, the highest peak on the south side of Highway 1 ( Trans Canada Highway).

From Sunshine Village ...............

From Sunshine Village walk south and uphill ...........................

Just picture a mild sunny day, temperatures plus 23C, majestic mountain scenery with a possibility of wildlife: September 3rd 2010 was just such a day.

We left Calgary later than expected due to a little lawn watering and arrived in time for the 1pm shuttle to Sunshine Village after a couple of 'construction' zones on Highway 1 and of course our Park pass had run out at the end of August so we had to wait in line at Banff Park gate to purchase a new one!

We were to be fortunate as we viewed mountain sheep, marmnots galore, some even posing for their photograph to be taken and a family of mule deer enjoying the warmth of a sunny afternoon.

Our destination meadows and three lakes: Rock Isle, Grizzly and Larix. These three lakes are visited often by large numbers, on a sunny day up to a 130 have been recorded, hence the trail is assiduously maintained and there are viewing platforms to soften the impact of human beings on this delicate ecosystem. Don't get us wrong the lakes and meadows are lovely but the mountainous expanse that spreads out from them in all directions is a sight to behold and one which the camera does not always do justice to. In the distance Mt Assiniboine thrusts its horn ever skywards and as autumn approaches the stands of larch trees are meant to add a brilliant gold to the alpine meadows especially around Grizzly and Larix lakes - but not yet and definitely "come again" scenery for later on in September when the needles of the larch turn golden before dropping to the ground. (The botanical name for larch trees is Larix hence the name of the lake!)

So from the ski lodge walk south and uphill 200m, take the left turn as it ascends gently. Continue past the next junction at 2290 m (7510 ft) in 1.2 km you arrive at the summit of the Greta Divide at this point take the path to the right and after a further 1.6 km Rock Isle Lake overlook allows you to view the scenery of lake and mountains - a little reminiscent of Tarn Howes but without the back drop of Mt Assiniboine! From this point follow the path around the lake affording you magnificent views of the mountains and the meadows as you head down towards Grizzly Lake, not as pretty as Rock Isle Lake but there are old grizzly bear diggings to take your interest. An overlook provides a view of the Simpson River Valley and a little shade from the sun. Larix Lake is pretty but would have been more prettier had the larches turned the autumnal gold they were supposed to at this time of year. The circular path rejoined the path leading back to Rock Isle Lake but we detoured up to Standish viewpoint, we were alone here and vistas were wonderful; 360 degrees of mountain scenery. We decided not to return to Sunshine Village by the path already known, instead we headed northwestwards through meadows just the two of us with silence of the great outdoors and a gentle breeze. We were rewarded with a sight of a family of mule deer resting in the afternoon sunshine. As we approached the subalpine forest there was evidence of fresh grizzly bear diggings for roots and/or ground squirrels but no sign of any bears. We reached the Village in plenty of time to catch the last bus down to the car park at 5.30pm.

A wonderful hike, beautiful scenery and wildlife to boot (they usually take cover when we are around!).

20C, a bit of sun at Sunshine!

Yesterday (Saturday) we rose early, met up with a couple of pals at the Petro Canada on Highway 1 and set off for the early shuttle from the Sunshine car park to Sunshine Village. We were not the only early birds, as the car park was filling up with vehicles and some folk were already queueing or should I say that there was an element of an 'line up'. The shuttle is usually a yellow school bus - a true bone shaker, guaranteed to wake you up if you weren't already. However, we were somewhat surprised when a mini bus arrived and out jumps the driver and, with a home counties accent, announces that there has been a problem with the shuttle and he could take nine. No scramble just concerned looks. The shuttle was on its way but it needed to be 'fixed' first and it was a white school bus not yellow. The four of us got on board and arrived at Sunshine Village with not a bone shaken and watched as the day lodge was opened.

Hiking poles extended we set off in the direction of Simpson Pass and from there to Healy Meadows and Healy Pass. Our summer has indeed been wetter and we were greeted quickly with lush green meadows and meadow flowers in abundance; we stopped frequently as Neil and Linda were experts but Bill and I slowly began to remember names; we particularly like the Shy Maiden, a small white flower which shied away from the sunlight but so dainty. Paint brushes greeted us almost everywhere but the deep burgundy/magenta ones stole our hearts. Lakes were full of water, we had only ever seen them dry before and of course their chums, the mosquitoes, were about and yes we were bitten in those places where the insect repellent did not reach!

We arrived at Healy Meadows, along with numerous other people from all directions, and were amazed at the sight of the meadow flowers. They were flowering very late, it is mid August after all, but the scent and colours set against the back drop of the mountains was just spectacular. Truly 'awesome'.

We dined at the Pass, it was clear and the mountains looked splendid, some still snow covered. We dawdled back through the meadows and so our decent began. The return route took us through forestry, once again lush green with pockets of flowers; the colours of the flowers were confined to whites and yellows mostly with a few purples and reds dotted around.

We returned to a full car park, a little weary but after a cup of tea and we were ready to do it all again.

Our first Canniversary

We celebrated our first Canniversary and Bills Birthday with a hike to Helen Lake, with stunning views of Hector Glacier and the Drummond Glacier. Helen Lake was not as spectacular as Hector or Herbert Lakes, its waters were not the blue green of glacial melt. The hairy marmots could be heard whistling, calling us back another day when they could try and snatch our lunch, too many dogs around for their liking although most of them were happy just to lie or stand in the lakes cool waters. It was sunny and warm and more bearable in the mountains as Calgary sizzled to a warm and sultry plus 26C or even more. Odd to think that on Friday there had been a heavy drizzle for most of the day. So we ask has summer finally arrived? Last weekend they were skiing at Whistler having received a surprise snowfall ... global warming ????.

We both thought about the last year; the highs and lows, especially over jobs. The activities we have enjoyed; hiking, snow shoeing, cross country skiing, exploring Calgary, building our home and now developing our ideas for the garden - all that research on what will grow and what will not survive the cold winter and also the Chinooks. We have learnt new skills too such as fly fishing and for Bill kayaking and there will be many more things for us to learn, explore and research in this new country of ours. We have enjoyed visiting the sub alpine and enjoying the wild flowers in the late spring/early summer. The colours and scents are sometimes difficult to describe.

End of a soggy spring in Calgary!

Summer arrived officially at 5.28 am this morning. Spring has been soggy by any standards; lots of snow at the start of spring and plenty of rainfall at the end. Farmers in the Prairies were calling for more precipitation but didn't expect the very large amounts we had - be careful what you wish for!

Wet snow allowed the 'greening' of the grass and trees to begin to leaf, the rainfall has enabled plants to thrive and grow. The grass is green, the trees in bloom and flowers are making their best efforts to provide colour. Nosehill Park was awash with spring flowers the vibrant yellows andpurples mixing with the fresh green grasses whilst overhead Prairie Raptors look for thermals to glide in. The rainfall last week has meant that the Bow and Little Elbow Rivers are in full spate and people are requested not to venture out into the fast flowing water as there has already been one fatality this past Saturday. The town of Medicine Hat has seen flooding as never seen before and over 200 homes have been evacuated due to the water levels and the build up of sewage in the pipes. Highway 1, the Trans Canada Highway, is closed between Alberta and Saskatchewan as 75 metres pf road have been washed away. One driver told reporters that she had never seen so much water all around the Highway and so little actual Prairie. Climate change ?

The views of the 'big sky' from our deck can be spectacular. We have watched storms develop; typical geographers watching the clouds build and develop - nothing like the North West of England and those endless cumulus clouds. Even on a grey day it is still bright. The colours and the effects of the changing light can only be described as stunning.

We have taken to strolling around the area where we now reside; we have seen several deer, a female coyote, very well fed we might add, and yesterday evening we heard, and saw for the very first time the coyote cubs. We have heard their howls in the evening and yesterday we were very fortunate to watch five cubs at play a short distance from where we were standing. Even the hare stopped and listened to the cubs at play, as usual the camera was left behind.

The temperatures are warming nicely although we are still below average for this time of year. Today, Monday June 21st. a very warm 21C, it was a tad too warm to sit comfortably on the deck at 5.30 pm with cup of tea after work!